Are you Team Barolo or Team Nutella? That is a relevant question when visiting the small town of Alba in the Italian region of Piemonte. The town is famous for its medieval buildings and its autumn truffle market. The real treasure is the prized white truffle.
Alba is also in the middle of one of Italy’s most famous wine districts and the birthplace of Nutella, a product that turned a family patisserie into the world’s third-largest confectionery company in less than a century. The story fits perfectly into my monthly recap, which often includes reflections on why places and companies grow – or dwindle. Last year, while working for IKEM on an EU-funded project about the skills Europe’s chemical industry needs to avoid decline, stories about companies that had failed kept catching my attention. This year I am working for ESCI on an EU-funded project about creating new industries that will transform places. Perhaps that is why stories about how successful companies were created now draw my attention instead.
This fascination isn’t new. It has found its way into several of my books. Speaking of books, summer is not vacation time for authors.
On a very hot day I packed a wheeled bag with books – a few copies of each French title – and took the bus to Cagnes-sur-Mer for a book apéro at the elegant Château Le Cagnard. Together with a couple of authors, I shared stories about southern France. It was great fun, and we also involved the audience in the conversation. I was especially grateful to everyone who helped lighten my book trolley. A couple of books even travelled to Italy. The border is close, and travelling between the countries is common.
One week earlier I visited Alba and Piemonte. A couple of friends and I had lunch in one of the small villages in the Barolo wine area. These vineyards are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, something that gives them protection. They will not be planted with hazel anytime soon. Otherwise, my impression is that hazelnut plantations are expanding.
The driving force is the global demand for Nutella. The story began after the Second World War, when cocoa was in short supply. A pastry chef in Alba started experimenting with blending locally grown roasted hazelnuts to make the limited cocoa go further. The first version was a solid block that had to be sliced. Over time, the recipe evolved into the sweet spread sold around the world today.
I am no fan of the spread, but I do like the story. I would still choose a glass of Nebbiolo any day. This month’s champagne count: zero — but I have sampled French wine in all other colours. 🥂
I publish these monthly recaps on both LinkedIn and here at my website. A huge thank you to Tomas Hultquist for the pictures.
Science communicator and project manager based in Sweden, working internationally. Montly recaps in English.
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